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Easy to apply and hard as stone I would use it again

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on most paint type product thinning is possible but usually not recommended. with this primer it is a must ----- ask me how I know! it sands out very nicely to prep for final top coat paint

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I wish the viscosity of the base in the can was a little lower so you could pour it more easily. Even after power mixing. Sprays great, sands wonderfully.

I followed the instructions, but soon realized that this product sucked. It behaved just like two-part topside paint, except it smelled worse: it sagged, it's transparent, it did not cover anything. I wouldn't even call it a primer. I was painting outside in a breeze and thought I could get away with saving money on the mask, but later I felt really sick. This is terrible stuff. The next day I had to use 60 grit on my palm sander to get all those runs sanded down. The paint doesn't stick to anything except itself, and it's rock hard. I bought three quarts of this product, and after using one quart I will now throw the rest as hazardous waste. Take it off the marked! Or rename it as stink-paint. This is not a primer.

I read, re-read and read again just about every review on the internet about this stuff. I made notes and charts about mixing ratios, application thicknesses...you name it. PREPARATION PAYS OFF WITH THIS! This was applied over 2 coats of CPES which is what Primekote was designed to be applied over, before applying Brightside. After CAREFULLY mixing the base and then the reactor and letting it go through its :20 minute induction, I thinned 25% with 2333N, per the instructions. It rolled on just beautifully. Very easy to apply with good coverage. I mixed up my first batch (about 1/2 quart) and proceeded to cut-in and paint. The entire job (on a 10' sailing dinghy) took right at about 1:15 minutes. By the time I finished, the first half of the boat was almost dry to the touch (at 80F/55% humidity). You MUST use a respirator with organic charcoal filters!!! The reactor component smells really weird, like rotting meat. When I opened the can, there was a weird slime around the rim of the can, as well as a chunk of what looked like something moldy. I had read something similar in another post, so I proceeded to mix anyway and then waited. Everything dried just fine and what was most surprising was that after an overnight cure, it sanded SO EASILY! It was almost like sanding chalk. The dust was a very fine powder that I had to continuously sweep away. After sanding the first coat, I swept, vacuumed and tacked off the boat and then gave it a quick wipe down with acetone. I taped off the boat and applied the second coat, which went on just as smoothly. My next step will be a few coats of Prekote (I had some extra). This will help cover some dimples where I have nails that I puttied over, and then finish up with a few coats of Brightside. I was very nervous, based on some reviews I had read, but went ahead anyway. This was very good stuff to use, and I would not hesitate to use it again.

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Used Wizz black foam rollers and was able to achieve a really smooth finish with minimal bubbles and near zero lap marks. Sands to a smooth finish ready for top coat with minimal effort. You have to follow the directions though and focus on the standing time and thinning procedure before application.

This product has poor self leveling properties. If you use a marine roller you end up with stippling like a truck bed liner. If you tip of with a brush you get brush strokes. These two finishes require a lot of sanding to get down to a smooth finish. Once you have removed 90% of product you have a good smooth surface. Product was thinned properly no difference. Product too expensive, money & time, for me to do multiple coats. Best to try something else.

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Did two coats on FB, pilothouse roof and cabin top on a 36' Roamer Riviera. Il said to sand with 220 and that was FOREVER. Went with 150 to getter done. Took almost 2 quarts for good coverage.

Very poor self leveling properties (and yes I thinned as directed), that means if you are going to roll/tip your are going to spend many hours sanding back to get a smooth surface. For roll/tip apply 5-6 coats so there is enough thickness to sand out all the brush marks.

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Please be sure you have leveled the surface. This is a final step and goes on thin so is not a filling epoxy coat. You should put on first coat with a roller. Do not press too hard with the roller. Use a foam brush to get the tight areas first then Start rolling with a gap where you have previously painted and then blend back into the previous area. A separate clean foam brush is used to drag along the top of the rolled area to tip off the area. I found a brush, all brushes just leave too many brush marks that do not float out and need to be sanded. One more thing Plan on at least two coats. The primer is a bit transparent and any filler clearly shows thru even after two coats. I am expecting extra coats of perfection may be needed to overcoat. Most LPU paints should bond well to any sanded Epoxy surface as long as the Amine blush is gone. the Amine free epoxies are better but I would treat them the same, just in case the humidity rose during curing. Better safe than sorry. I would rather find problems with the PrimeKote than later with the Perfection surface. I used two coats of primer then used a guide coat and saw waves in the boats surface after long boarding. Filled and sanded again and had to re apply two more coats of primer. I would suggest using a thicker barrier coat, or epoxy with the use of a guide coat before the final prime. Now the bottom and freeboard is right. The waves were about 3 inches crest to crest. they were about 20 mils deep. A little too much for the PrimKote product. Used the 3m filler because it is what I had and it sanded out well. The WaterTight stuff is the same if not better. It has a little longer working time. Again the filler material shows thru the primer.